LONDON MEN’S FASHION WEEK
KENNY DOWNS
LONDON MEN’S FASHION WEEK
KENNY DOWNS
GIVES US THE LFW MEN’S RUNDOWN
PUBLISHED: 21 JUNE ‘23
PUBLISHED: 21 JUNE ‘23
This month, the British Fashion Council (BFC) presented London Men’s Fashion Week, showcasing some of London’s finest young burgeoning designers and creatives. At any venue, you would expect to see crowds and queues glittering with unique style and flair that would be hard to find anywhere else.
“This is my first London Fashion Week and I’m really excited to see other creatives and seeing their passions come to life on the runway” tells fashion assistant Dion (@godsavethedon on IG). “Everyone looks stunning and everyone’s been so cool.”
There were events scattered across the city, including ones by Clarks’ newest Creative Director Martine Rose, and BFC NewGen recipient Saul Nash. The scenes at these shows were lively and colorful, proving that London is a true fashion capital with much more potential that will be explored in the future. At these shows, we saw differing takes on classic tailoring, breezy and beachy holiday attire, and an emphasis on fun and quirky embellishments, pushing the envelope a little more on what all menswear could be.
“This is my first London Fashion Week and I’m really excited to see other creatives and seeing their passions come to life on the runway” tells fashion assistant Dion (@godsavethedon on IG). “Everyone looks stunning and everyone’s been so cool.”
There were events scattered across the city, including ones by Clarks’ newest Creative Director Martine Rose, and BFC NewGen recipient Saul Nash. The scenes at these shows were lively and colorful, proving that London is a true fashion capital with much more potential that will be explored in the future. At these shows, we saw differing takes on classic tailoring, breezy and beachy holiday attire, and an emphasis on fun and quirky embellishments, pushing the envelope a little more on what all menswear could be.
“Something I always look forward to for London Fashion Week is energy!”
- Model, Yuki (@yuukikoshiba)
The BFC has supported over 135 designers and gained coverage in 91 countries, promoting opportunities for creatives on a global scale. According to their most recent diversity and inclusion report co-conducted with the MBS group, only 51% of fashion businesses have a D&I strategy. The report also claims that expressing social mobility is a driving force for more diversity in the fashion world. Younger generations are especially wary of brands and see the importance of accountability from both the stances of a business owner and as a consumer as fashion markets become more saturated. Here I give you my take on the shows that caught my eye (Martine Rose of course) / that I was able to attend and see IRL, Qasimi and Sagaboi.
The Martine Rose show was attended by PRIM Founder K Bailey Obazee, and from her descriptions and the videos she sent me, it was as if we time traveled back to a bar in 1983, subtly marking the return of the cool indie sleaze. Rugged leather and masculine fits marked by exaggerated shoulders were a huge cornerstones for this collection, honing back to work-life culture in the 1970s and ‘80s. The outfits and the clothes themselves were parties of textures from the creamy satin blouses to crisp nylon jackets. And who could forget about the yellow kitschy embellished bomber? The pieces took inspo from the working class as workwear was seen throughout but the styling was current, involving some maximalist edge as well as classic silhouettes and proportions.
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via Martin Rose
The Qasimi presentation was aesthetically structured yet free flowing. There were two groups of models who cycled through every half hour wearing the brand’s latest SS24 collection inspired by Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq. They stepped onto the wooden platform and stoically posed around it.
The design team floated around engaging in conversations not only about the collection, but catching up with friends and getting to know newer people in the space.
The Martine Rose show was attended by PRIM Founder K Bailey Obazee, and from her descriptions and the videos she sent me, it was as if we time traveled back to a bar in 1983, subtly marking the return of the cool indie sleaze. Rugged leather and masculine fits marked by exaggerated shoulders were a huge cornerstones for this collection, honing back to work-life culture in the 1970s and ‘80s. The outfits and the clothes themselves were parties of textures from the creamy satin blouses to crisp nylon jackets. And who could forget about the yellow kitschy embellished bomber? The pieces took inspo from the working class as workwear was seen throughout but the styling was current, involving some maximalist edge as well as classic silhouettes and proportions.
The Qasimi presentation was aesthetically structured yet free flowing. There were two groups of models who cycled through every half hour wearing the brand’s latest SS24 collection inspired by Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq. They stepped onto the wooden platform and stoically posed around it.
The design team floated around engaging in conversations not only about the collection, but catching up with friends and getting to know newer people in the space.
QASIMI is a brand known for their timeless minimalism and structured tailoring. My personal favorite pieces were the cubic embellished tunic which was cleanly layered atop a crisp white shirt, and the satin scarf that was very well styled in unique ways on different models. The earth toned color palette was especially calming. Rich blues were matched with brassy yellows and grounded by a balance of warm and cool neutrals.
The Sagaboi show was very fun even before the show began. The queue was full of friendly faces and fashionable forms, reflecting Sagaboi’s nature. Sagaboi’s SS24 collection aptly titled “Fresh Off the Boat,” gave us cool Caribbean vibes and flavor. The first drink of the night was sweet and spicy, preluding the sweet and spicy looks we were about to see. The music (mixed by DJ Cktrl @cktrl) was banging! Everyone was grooving to dancehall hit after hit during, before, and after the show!
In the show we saw that islander influence. We got swimwear for the beach, knitwear for the beach parties, and then tailoring for the afters. The collection remixed menswear in a refreshing way, giving us juxtaposition to what is traditionally considered masculine. Aside from typical two-piece sets, we were met with sequin pieces and open knit trousers stepping away from classic masculine conservatism. At the end of the show, the cutest kid model called Kamari played it cool with crossed arms, then danced through the runway walking back. The afterparty was just as lit! I met so many interesting creatives ranging from being well established to freshly starting out.
“It’s beautiful to see a continued expression of culture and gender fluidity as well as sustainability.
It’s refreshing to look away from the western world for a moment and look into the vibrance and creativity the Caribbean and Africa has to offer”
- Art Curator, Péjú Oshin (@pejuoshin).
This year’s men’s fashion week made me excited about what more is to come for the future. As gender lines get blurred and creatives of color elevate and get their time in the sun, fashion will become an even more vibrant place. London will continue to flourish as a fashion capital because there are more opportunities and potential to grow for young creatives. London is one of the most diverse cities in the world and the city celebrates that everyday, especially through fashion.
via Sagaboi